Hungarian Food & The 85 Dishes To Know

From lángos to goulash to paprikash – learn about the history of Hungarian food and the country's top dishes.

Palacsinta and goulash soup are among the most beloved foods in Hungary. Photo: Tas Tóbiás

Hungarian Food 101

Hungarian food is a reflection of Hungary's continental climate (cold winters, hot summers), its countryside fare, and the influences of neighboring countries and ethnic minorities. For example, while Hungarians have been eating some form of goulash for hundreds of years, dishes like stuffed peppers, schnitzel, and cholent have gradually seeped into the mainstream thanks to Ottoman, Austrian, and Jewish influences, respectively.

The culinary high point of historical Hungary was during the 15th-century reign of the Renaissance king, Matthias Corvinus. Through his Naples-born wife, Beatrice, he hired the most skilled chefs from Italy who whipped up elaborate feasts in the royal palaces of Visegrád and Buda.

While the occupation by Ottoman Turkey stopped Hungary's development for nearly two centuries, it also brought forth important culinary innovations – stuffed vegetables, new dessert dishes, and coffee appeared in this time. This was also when New World produce such as beans, squash, corn, potato, tomato, and paprika first arrived in Hungary. In fact, paprika (capsicum) went on to revolutionize Hungarian food after local farmers cultivated a host of subspecies ranging from sweet to scorching hot.

A paprika-laced veal stew with a side of egg dumplings (nokedli). Photo: Tas Tóbiás
A paprika-laced veal stew with a side of egg dumplings (nokedli). Photo: Tas Tóbiás

Meanwhile, the delicate French cooking techniques began to spread into the households of the Hungarian aristocracy. Over time, the urban middle classes also took notice and tamed the somewhat crude and spicy Hungarian peasant fare (for example roux replaced bread as a thickener). This yielded a more refined yet still distinct cooking style that's considered the basis of modern Hungarian food.

Given the small size of Hungary, regional differences are scant. One notable exception is Transylvania, part of Romania today but with a sizable Hungarian community. There, instead of paprika, herbs and spices such as ginger, tarragon, thyme, rosemary, summer savory, and juniper have remained essential seasonings. Transylvania is also known for its corn-based dishes like polenta and sheep's rather than cow's milk cheese.

Lunch in Hungary usually begins with soup. Unlike in many Eastern European countries, few soups have a characteristically sour taste. At the top of the soup hierarchy sits the flavorful húsleves, literally meat soup, usually made from long-simmered beef or poultry and often served for Sunday family meals and wedding receptions. The everyday soup of choice is usually determined by the season: There might be a hearty bean soup studded with smoked ham (Jókai bableves) in the cold months, and a light fruit soup in the summer (gyümölcsleves).

Hungary's climate is suitable to cool and warm-season vegetable crops alike, so there's both carrots, beets, kohlrabi, cabbage, cauliflower, but also tomatoes, bell peppers, green beans, and summer squash. Rather than reducing them to boiled or steamed side dishes, seasonal vegetable stews thickened with roux or sour cream (főzelék) often serve as a main course.

The concept of a salad course doesn't exist in Hungary. Instead, people accompany their main course by a small plate of seasoned vegetables, usually shredded cabbage, cucumbers, beets, or tomatoes. This is also the case during the winter, when they appear in pickled form (savanyúság).

Meat is fundamental to Hungarian food. The options span poultry, beef, and to a lesser extent game and game birds, but pork is most prevalent. Pork turns up in myriad forms. A paprika-laced roasted sausage paired with mustard and a slice of crusty bread is a popular everyday meal, but higher-end restaurants also serve roasted mangalica, the curly-haired breed of heritage pork known for its flavor-rich marbled meat. Historically, pork fat (lard) was the main cooking fat but it's now eclipsed by vegetable oils.

Before the use of refrigerators, preserved meats were the main source of protein in people's diets. Szalonna and kolbász are still popular in Hungary, both traditionally made during the annual winter pig slaughter. The premium téliszalámi – a smoked, fermented, and aged sausage laced with herbs – is rightfully regarded as a national treasure.

Hungary is a landlocked country. This doesn't mean you can't find a decent grilled shrimp cocktail these days, but freshwater fish like carp (ponty), catfish (harcsa), and, less commonly, trout (pisztráng) and pike-perch (fogas), are likely fresher. Sadly, long gone are the days when beluga sturgeons swarmed in the Danube. And while fish isn't the strongest suit of Hungarian food, the local fish soup – halászlé, layered with paprika of course – is worth trying.

Since the 17th century, noodle dishes have been essential in Hungary on days of fasting. Noodles appear in many soups, but more interestingly, there's a whole category of sweet (!) pasta dishes: regular noodles coated in ground poppy seeds (mákos tészta), ground walnuts (diós tészta), or toasted semolina (grízes tészta). Customarily, they are a second course followed by a hefty soup.

Also notable are the countless dessert dishes that originated in Austria-Hungary and still widespread across the Habsburg successor states. Examples include the Kaiserschmarrn (császármorzsa), the fruit jam-filled potato dumplings (szilvás gombóc), the poppy seeds bread pudding (mákos guba), and the sugary yeast rolls (aranygaluska). As with sweet pastas, they're served in place of a main course. The most common dessert in Hungary is palacsinta, a crepe-like unyeasted pancake rolled with fruit jam, túró, or cinnamon sugar.

Similar to Austria, Hungary is a cake-superpower. Many of the traditional cakes feature ground poppy seeds, ground walnuts, and chestnut paste, sometimes entirely replacing wheat flour. Note that restaurants in Hungary don't serve cakes; instead you'll have to visit a pastry shop (cukrászda) for a classic Dobos or Esterházy torte.

Hungarian cheeses don't exactly set the world on fire, in part because unlike in France and Switzerland, there's little available mountain pasture in the country for cows to graze on (Hungary's per capita milk consumption is also one of the lowest in the EU). But sour cream (tejföl) features in many dishes, lending them a pleasant kick and creamy consistency. Also popular is túró, a snow-white, fresh, unripened curd cheese similar to cottage cheese. Túró is highly versatile, appearing in both sweet (túrós batyu) and savory (túrós csusza) classics, and also in Hungary's iconic candy bar, the Túró Rudi.

Historically, Hungary has been a wine-drinking rather than a beer-drinking country, with Tokaj in the northeast the most famous wine region. The Communist era (1947-1989) did no favors to the reputation of Hungarian wines, but today a new generation of ambitious winemakers are committed to putting the country back on the radar of oenophiles.

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85 Essential Hungarian Dishes

Dear reader, before you start questioning the origins of the below dishes, bear in mind that regional foods influence one another in all parts of the world. For example, the goulash has become as much a standard in Austria as did the Wiener schnitzel in Hungary. If anything, this is a beautiful cultural exchange through food, enriching the cuisine of both countries.

In Budapest, you'll find many of the below dishes in traditional Hungarian restaurants, and also in étkezdes, which are cheap, unfussy, lunch-only restaurants. Note that some of the items are seasonal, such as the wintry cabbage rolls, so they may not be served year-round.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#1 - Túrós batyu: As in Italy, France, and Scandinavia, many people in Hungary start their days with a morning pastry instead of a full breakfast. The stuffing of sugary túró, a snow-white fresh curd cheese, lends a beguiling sweet-tart flavor to this palm-sized breakfast snack, which is available in almost any bakery and which evolved from the medieval túrós béles. Back then, people ate it only on special occasions.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#2 - Chocolate bun (kakaós csiga): Apart from the túrós batyu, above, kakaós csiga is the other beloved morning pastry in Hungary. If you have a sweet tooth, you'll find this rich chocolate bun shaped in a spiral to be a real treat, especially if you eat it while still warm. These Budapest bakeries could be a good starting point.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#3 - Plum jam (szilvalekvár): Be it a simple schmear atop a toasted bread, a rich garnish to foie gras, or a palacsinta filling, fruit preserves show up in many Hungarian dishes. The varieties are endless – peach, raspberry, strawberry, sour cherry – but it's the plum jam (szilvalekvár) that goes back furthest. Before sugar became cheap and widespread in the 19th century, people made szilvalekvár without it, laboriously stirring the fruit over fire for 12-14 hours into a creamy consistency.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#4 - Lángos: Many Hungarians associate this disc of deep-fried bread dough with summer vacations spent at Lake Balaton, but thankfully lángos is available year-round. At its best, the crispy, golden crust yields to a soft and steaming inside (historically, lángos was a byproduct of bread baking at home). Try one rubbed with garlic and topped with sour cream and grated cheese.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#5 - Liptauer (körözött): Named after the curd cheese of Liptov, in today's Slovakia, Liptauer is an orange-hued spread favored by people across the former Austria-Hungary. While many variations exist, the mixture almost always includes sheep's milk curd cheese (juhtúró), butter, paprika, minced onions, and caraway seeds. If in doubt, cold lager is always a good way to pair it. Recipe.

Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#6 - Cured sausage (kolbász): Cured meats are dear to Hungarian people and perhaps none more so than kolbász, traditionally prepared during the winter pig slaughter. Kolbász consists of a paste of meat, fat, and a paprika-heavy spice blend. The mixture is stuffed into a tubular casing – usually using the pig’s intestine – then smoked and dried. Sliced kolbász is highly versatile, appearing in many Hungarian classics, for example layered potatoes (rakott krumpli), and also as sandwich toppings. Most butcher shops in Budapest's Great Market Hall sell it. Feel free to ask for a sample first.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#7 - Szalámi: Traditional salami is a relatively recent type of preserved sausage in Hungary, dating back to the 19th century. Compared to kolbász, above, szalámi is thicker, aged longer, and usually made without paprika, hence the absence of an orange-red hue to it. A premium category is téliszalámi, recognizable by a white protective mold that grows on its surface during drying. Two historic companies, Pick and Herz, are still its main producers. Sliced szalámi works both as a snack and as a sandwich topping. Most higher-end Budapest grocery stores sell it.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#8 - Szalonna: Szalonna is an umbrella term for all cuts of preserved pork that come from right under the animal’s skin, be it fatback, pork belly, or jowl. Most szalonna is salted and smoked, but treatments vary by region. To this day, szalonna is a cherished, energy-rich sustenance across Hungary; people either cook it into dishes for a flavor boost or simply eat it as is with a slice of bread and vegetables. Most butcher shops in Budapest's Great Market Hall sell szalonna.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#9 - Bread spread with lard (zsíroskenyér): The tradition of spreading flavorful fat on crusty bread is alive and well in Hungary, too. While northern Europe uses butter, southern Europe olive oil, in Hungary creamy pork fat (lard) is the topping of choice. Sprinkled with rings of onion and a hint of paprika, the zsíroskenyér is a popular bar snack and pairs well with draft beer. A few places also serve a VIP version made with Mangalica lard. In Budapest, I recommend you try it in an old-school, unfussy neighborhood bar such as Grinzingi.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#10 - Fried fatback (töpörtyű & pörc): Morsels of fatback fried to a golden, crispy brown may not be for the faint of heart but they're delicious. Most butcher shops in Hungary make them from both pork and goose fat (schmaltz). Nibble at töpörtyű as they come or grab some red onions and a fresh slice of bread to pair. Pörc is similar, using pork belly instead of fatback (think chicharrón).

Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#11 - Beef consommé (marhahúsleves): Húsleves is a signature of Sunday family meals across Hungary, usually served from a large soup tureen for the whole table, similar to a pot-au-feu. The steaming, fragrant broth packs bits of tender beef, root vegetables, and noodles. Bone marrow and toast often come on the side. Recipe.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#12 - Goulash soup: Once the nourishment of herdsmen, this quintessential Hungarian dish consists of a paprika-laced broth piled generously with cubes of tender beef, potatoes, and small noodles. A 19th-century offshoot of the goulash, the goulash soup is made with more liquid and incorporates some vegetables. Confusingly, in Hungary, people refer to this soup as the goulash, while the original goulash is known as pörkölt (see #41 below). These Budapest restaurants won't disappoint. Use the tableside hot paprika paste to adjust the spice level to your taste. Recipe.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#13 - Újházi chicken soup: A classic of Hungarian wedding receptions, the Újházi is a flavor-rich chicken soup stacked with a mountain of vegetables – most of all: carrots, green peas, and mushrooms – and noodles. This reviving soup traces its moniker to Ede Újházi, a 19th-century Hungarian actor and a Rabelaisian figure who had the kitchen staff of Wampetics restaurant (the predecessor of the renowned Gundel) make it for him. The original recipe used capon instead of chicken. Recipe.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#14 - Fisherman's soup (halászlé): Hungary's take on the bouillabaisse has myriad regional permutations, most notably the fish soups originating in the riverfront cities of Baja and Szeged. Paprika and a range of small fish bolster the crimson-hued broth, which is anchored by tender carp or catfish filets. Traditionally, halászlé is part of the Christmas-Eve dinner in Hungarian families.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#15 - Jókai bean soup (Jókai bableves): This wonderfully bold winter soup is named after the beloved Hungarian writer, Mór Jókai, who was very fond of it. The main components are smoked pork, crispy sausages, pinto beans, root vegetables, and small egg noodles (csipetke). As many soups in Hungary, it’s usually finished with a dollop of sour cream. Words of advice: your most productive hours will not commence after polishing off a bowl of this one. Recipe.

Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#16 - Palóc soup: This bright-tasting green beans soup is the creation of restaurateur János Gundel, father of the famous Károly Gundel. He made the soup in 1892 as a birthday present to Kálmán Mikszáth, his regular patron and a celebrated novelist and politician. Mikszáth wrote about the Palóc people in northeast Hungary, hence the soup's moniker. The original recipe calls for mutton, but most people make it with pork or beef these days. Recipe.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#17 - Sauerkraut soup (korhelyleves): Hungarians traditionally eat this winter soup as a hangover cure following a nocturnal debauch. Bright-tasting sauerkraut, crispy sausages, and a flavorful broth laden with sour cream are meant to soothe the stomach and mitigate the headache. Recipe.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#18 - Lebbencs soup: This centuries-old noodle soup harks back to the countryside folks of eastern Hungary in and around the town of Debrecen. Lebbencs refers to huge sheets of paper-thin dough they'd roll then dry in the pantry. For their daily cooking needs, they’d chip off bits from it. The foundation of this simple but rewarding soup is rendered szalonna in which the lebbencs is lightly roasted. Recipe.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#19 - Pork bone soup (orjaleves): This dish dates back to the annual pig slaughter festivities in the Hungarian countryside where lunch would begin with orjaleves. But there’s good reason to whip up this stupendous bone soup even if you’re a city dweller. Part of the enjoyment is locating and savoring the tender bits of hidden meat left attached to the pork neck bone (feel free to use your hands).


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#20 - Kaszáslé: One of the oldest and now nearly forgotten soups in Hungary is named after the farm laborers who harvested wheat by hand using a scythe (kasza), a highly demanding physical task. The peasants would eat the kaszáslé during their lunch break in the summer heat under the cool shelter of a tree. Oddly, the aristocracy was also fond of it. Many kaszáslé variations exist – some thickened with egg yolks, others with sour cream or roux – but its two key features are the smoked meat pieces and the slightly sour, bright-tasting liquid which helped preserve it for days. Recipe.

Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#21 - Chilled sour-cherry soup (hideg meggyleves): You’re unlikely to find this beloved summer treat outside of Hungary. The key is fresh, pitted sour cherries that are transformed – using water, spices, light cream, and sugar – into a deliciously silky, sweet-tart chilled soup. Recipe.

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Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#22 - Foie gras (libamáj): Usually associated with French fare, few people know that Hungary is the world's second biggest producer of foie gras. Most Budapest fine dining restaurants serve this delicacy as an appetizer with a side of fruit jam to match the rich flavor and buttery texture of the fattened duck liver (traditionally, foie gras pairs with a glass of Tokaji aszú).


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#23 - Green pea stew (zöldborsó főzelék): Be it potato, kohlrabi, cabbage, spinach, lentil, beans, green peas, or squash, Hungary’s love affair with vegetable stews (főzelék) is seemingly endless. Főzelék can stand on its own as a main course paired simply with a thick slice of crusty bread – historically eaten on days of abstinence – but toppings often include a sunny-side up egg, a meatball, pörkölt, or sausage. Recipe.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#24 - Summer squash stew (tökfőzelék): One of Hungary’s most commonly eaten vegetable stews draws both avid admirers and staunch detractors. Thickened with sour cream, spiked with fresh dill, and topped with a meatball, the tökfőzelék is a reviving summer dish (some serve it chilled). Recipe.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#25 - Lentil stew (lencsefőzelék): As in some other cultures, the myriad lentil seeds symbolize prosperity and hence this dish is a must-have on New Year's Day across Hungary. Sour cream, mustard, and a bay-leaves-forward spice mix concentrate the flavors of this vegetable stew, which is often topped with smoked meat. Recipe.

Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#26 - Spinach stew (spenótfőzelék): Light cream, a hint of garlic, and whipped egg yolks help round out this delicious and smooth spinach stew. It pays off to make it with mature spinach, which has more flavor than the mild baby spinach. Fried, soft-boiled, or poached eggs usually go on top. Recipe.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#27 - Savoy cabbage stew (kelkáposzta-főzelék): Bits of crinkly Savoy cabbage and potato chunks crowd this creamy and mild vegetable stew flavored with caraway seeds. Using tender new potatos and a few tablespoons of sour cream to finish can turn this everyday dish into a luscious treat. Recipe.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#28 - Green beans stew (zöldbabfőzelék): Green and yellow wax beans stew have been popular for a long time in Hungary. A generous amount of sour cream and a bit of lemon juice (or vinegar) impart the signature bright flavor to this summer dish, which is served cold during the hottest months. Recipe.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#29 - Tomato cabbage stew (paradicsomos káposzta): No summary of Hungarian food is complete without a cabbage stew; this one calls for fresh cabbage but also works with sauerkraut. The creamy tomato sauce lends a hint of tartness and an impressive red hue to this sweet-sour dish. Roasted pork rib is often served on top. Recipe.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#30 - Potato stew (krumplifőzelék): By the early 19th century, potatoes, which came from the Americas, spread across Hungary. Potatoes were an economical alternative to cereal crops and hence appeared in ever more dishes – in soups, porridges, and even noodles. Perhaps none became more prevalent than the potato stew, sitting in a creamy, bright-tasting sauce and usually topped with meatballs. Recipe.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#31 - Lecsó: Made from wax peppers, tomatoes, and onions, the ideal time for this Hungarian ratatouille is the late summer when these vegetables are ripest and most flavorful. Lecsó is even better when boosted with rice or fried eggs and thin slices of crispy sausage. Recipe.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#32 - Paprika potatoes (paprikás krumpli): While some consider it to be low-brow, don’t look down your nose at this rustic potato dish that has nourished generations of Hungarians. The simple ingredients belie the nicely layered flavors owing to the szalonna, the paprika sausages, and the sliced frankfurters. Recipe.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#33 - Stuffed peppers (töltött paprika): As with the stuffed cabbage, below, the stuffed peppers date to the 16th-century Ottoman occupation of Hungary. Since then, the dish has become a favorite across the country. The peppers are filled with a mixture of ground pork, rice, sauteed onions, and spices and served on a bed of subtly sweet tomato sauce with a side of boiled potatoes. Recipe.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#34 - Stuffed cabbage (töltött káposzta): In medieval Hungary, meat with a side of sauerkraut was a national dish. During the country's Ottoman occupation, the Turkish practice of stuffing meat into vegetable leaves was adopted and hence the cabbage rolls appeared. A bed of sauerkraut and a generous dollop of sour cream topping set apart the local version from the regional varieties. Töltött káposzta is a treasured winter staple and an obligatory course at Hungarian wedding receptions. Word to the wise: it tastes even better the next day (and the day after that). Recipe.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#35 - Layered cabbage (kolozsvári rakott káposzta): This hearty cabbage dish was designed to offset the cold, gloomy winter evenings. The ingredients have evolved over the decades but the foundation consists of sauerkraut layered with rice, smoked sausages, and sour cream; some add slices of hard-boiled eggs and szalonna. One of those foods that tastes even better when reheated the next day.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#36 - Layered potatoes (rakott krumpli): Hungary's take on the potato gratin, which is eaten as a main dish here, features rings of hard-boiled eggs, rich cream, and crisped-up paprika sausages. Even better when served with a side of pickled vegetables. Recipe.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#37 - Lungs with bread dumplings (szalontüdő / savanyútüdő): Also popular in Austria and the Czech Republic, this plate of cooked veal lungs – the traditional recipe calls for veal but it’s often made with beef or pork – is tastiest when served with a creamy and bright-tasting sauce tinged with lemon juice and a couple of bread dumplings on the side.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#38 - Hungarian tripe stew (pacal pörkölt): As in Italy and France, tripe in Hungary has long been considered a poor man’s food but it can be wonderfully delicious when cooked to tender submission with some bite left to it. In Hungary, naturally, the julienned strips of beef tripe arrive in a red-hued paprika sauce and a side of boiled potatoes.


#39 - Goose giblets porridge (ludaskása): One of Hungary's oldest dishes, although in the days of yore the ludaskása was made with millet porridge instead of rice. Leftover goose giblets and other goose parts are cooked into a bed of al dente rice and root vegetables. It's an economical dish that was popular among both the Christian and the Jewish residents of Budapest at the turn of the 20th century.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#40 - Roasted sausages (sütőkolbász & hurka): Be it breakfast, lunch, or dinner, roasted sausage is an adored comfort food in Hungary. A generous dollop of mustard, pickled vegetables, and a thick slice of crusty bread are all you need for this pretense-free meal. Kolbász is a meat sausage with paprika-forward spices while hurka is stuffed with a paste of cooked offal and rice. These Budapest sausage shops are on point.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#41 - Goulash (pörkölt): Hungary's national dish originated among herdsmen in the Hungarian Plain (Alföld) the goulash – and was popularized in the 18th century by Hungarian aristocrats who wanted to flaunt Hungary's unique culture in the face of Habsburg Joseph II's strong centralization. The gulyás would sprinkle szalonna (pork fat) and onions into a large cast-iron kettle called bogrács and roast morsels of beef over fire. Paprika is an 18th-century addition. The traditional side to both the goulash and its sister dish, the paprikash, is egg dumplings (nokedli or galuska) or egg "barley" (tarhonya). Recipe.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#42 - Chicken paprikash: For a long time, paprikash and goulash meant the same thing and were used interchangeably. Today, there’s a slight difference between these centuries-old Hungarian classics: the paprikash is usually made with chicken or veal and always finished with sour cream. Because of its lush, creamy sauce, many people favor the paprikash of the two. Recipe.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#43 - Csikós tokány: Tokány is a stew dish similar to the goulash and the paprikash, above, but usually prepared with less paprika than those two. Historically, tokány was common in Transylvania and the name itself comes from the Romanian word for ragout. You can recognize a tokány by the thin, elongated shape of the meat pieces. Smoked szalonna and sour cream give a distinct taste to the csikós tokány, which can be made with any meat you like. Recipe.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#44 - Catfish paprikash (harcsapaprikás): Like the herdsmen, Hungarian fishermen also fell for the beguiling pungency of paprika when this spice spread across the country in the 18th century. Soon, their fish-heavy dishes were suffused with the crimson shade of capsicum. Today, this fish stew is typically made with catfish and served with a side of túrós csusza (see below), ensuring a regret-inducing level of calorie intake.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#45 - Mushroom paprikash (gombapaprikás): If you’re vegetarian or don’t feel like eating meat, this mushroom paprikash is a good foray into the world of paprika-spiked Hungarian classics. The dish works best with basic white or cremini mushrooms that don’t overwhelm the rich and creamy sauce. Egg dumplings (galuska or nokedli) or rice are usually on the side. Recipe.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#46 - Sauerkraut goulash (székelykáposzta / székelygulyás): A Budapest restaurant invented this hefty dish in 1846 using leftover pork goulash (pörkölt) and sauerkraut. The mixture quickly became a hit and spread across Hungary. Despite what many people think, székelykáposzta has nothing to do with Transylvania; while Székely people do live in Transylvania, the dish’s moniker actually refers to József Székely, the person who first ordered it. Recipe.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#47 - Pork rice pilaf (bácskai rizses hús): This dish comes from Hungary’s southern neighbor, Serbia, based on a casserole called djuvec. It’s essentially a rich rice pilaf studded with bits of stewed pork. Another way to think of it: toss your leftover pork goulash with rice. The bácskai rizses hús isn’t complete without a side of pickles and some recipes also call for a drizzle of grated cheese on top. Recipe.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#48 - Cholent (sólet): First introduced in Hungary by the local Jewish community, this traditional medieval Sabbath dish has since spread into the mainstream. Many cholent variations exist; in Budapest the base usually consists of slow-cooked beans and pearl barley and toppings include sliced brisket, goose leg, and eggs. Jewish-style restaurants serve it on Fridays and Saturdays.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#49 - Schnitzel (rántott hús): This Italian-Austrian breaded veal cutlet has made its way deep into Hungarian kitchens, being a popular dish of Sunday family meals. When done right, a tender and juicy meat hides behind the thin, crispy crust. While the original recipe calls for veal, Budapest restaurants often serve it with pork loin, chicken breast, or a ham-and-cheese filling (cordon bleu). Recipe.


Mangalica pork chop paired with polenta and fresh vegetables. Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Mangalica pork chop paired with polenta and fresh vegetables. Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#50 - Mangalica pork chop: Similar to the black-hoofed Iberico, the Hungarian Mangalica is a treasured breed of heritage pig, known for its richly marbled meat and curly "fleece." Michelin-starred restaurants around the world serve Mangalica, but on the home turf in Hungary you'll be able to feast on this porcine delicacy at relatively wallet-friendly prices.

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Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#51 - Vadas: Vadas is a catch-all phrase for dishes prepared with an orange-hued, sweet-tart sauce made from pureed root vegetables and spiked with mustard, lemon, and a little sugar. Though originally referred to game meat ("vad" translates to game), restaurants usually serve it with slow-cooked beef (vadas marha). The classic pairing calls for bread dumplings on the side.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#52 - Cucumber salad (uborkasaláta): As mentioned in the intro, fresh vegetables are usually served as a side dish in Hungary instead of as a separate salad course. Cucumber salad thinly sliced and anointed with salt, vinegar, sugar, and a blob of sour cream is especially popular. Your chicken paprikash, goulash, and schnitzel will appreciate a plate of sweet-sour uborkasaláta on its side. Recipe.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#53 - Pickled vegetables (savanyúság): In a country with a relatively long winter such as Hungary, pickled vegetables (savanyúság) provide essential nutrients during the barren months of the year. The savanyúság options are endless: from pickles, to cabbage, to peppers, to beets, to onions, to garlic, to you-name-it. Most savanyúság is made in a vinegar brine rounded with sugar, except for pickles and sauerkraut, which are usually fermented.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#54 - Cottage cheese noodles (túrós csusza): A late-medieval Hungarian dish that has remained well-liked ever since. Túrós csusza consists of slippery egg noodles smothered in sour cream and túró and sprinkled with crispy pork cracklings. The preparation is very simple, the key here is having good ingredients and using them with a generous hand. Hungarians often eat it as a second course after a fisherman's soup. Recipe.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#55 - Cabbage noodles (káposztás tészta/cvekedli/kocka): People in Hungary have been eating both cabbage and noodles for hundreds of years, so it’s no surprise that the two appear together in this dish. The shredded and roasted cabbage coats every inch of the square-shaped bits of slippery pasta. A bit of sugar and a generous seasoning of freshly ground peppers lend the dish its signature sweet-pungent flavor. Recipe.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#56 - Potato noodles (gránátoskocka / krumplis tészta): Who knew that potatoes with noodles can be so gratifying? For prudence, you may want to save this one for a day when physical exercise helps offset the double-dose of carbs before you. The apocryphal story is that the dish harks back to the Napoleonic Wars, when all that the Habsburg military could provide its soldiers were noodles and potatoes, which the resourceful Hungarians jazzed up in the usual way: with onions and paprika. Recipe.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#57 - Egg dumplings (tojásos nokedli / galuska): The tojásos nokedli is proof that spätzle-like dumplings can play more than just a supporting role on a plate. Using a strainer board, all you need to do is shave coarse bits of runny dough into a pot of simmering water (scoop them out when they appear on the surface a few minutes later). The key to this dish is the creamy scrambled eggs folded into and glued to the dumplings. As well as a side of fresh, sweet-sour lettuce. They're even more popular in neighboring Vienna. Recipe.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#58 - Poppy-seeds noodles (mákos tészta): 16th-century recipe collections already include this easy-to-whip-up noodle dish blanketed in ground poppy seeds and powdered sugar. Hungarians used to eat on days of abstinence. Thanks to the trace amounts of opiates, exasperated parents would also serve this to soothe their unruly children and help them fall asleep. Recipe.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#59 - Semolina noodles (grízes/darás tészta): Another unfancy but inventive sweet noodle dish, the grízes tészta is generously layered with toasted and soaked semolina. What helps win over the hearts of people about this one is the generous dollop of runny apricot jam on top. Recipe.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#60 - Walnut noodles (diós tészta): Yet another member of the weird and wonderful group of sweet pasta dishes in Hungary. The egg noodles are first slicked with butter, then showered in ground walnuts, powdered sugar, and runny fruit preserves. Simple and delicious. Recipe.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#61 - Cottage cheese dumplings (túrógombóc): Túrógombóc combines Hungary’s fondness for túró, a fresh curd cheese, and the Czech and German preference for dumplings (knödels). The result amounts to more than the sum of its parts, especially when kept light with only a minimal amount of flour or semolina. The sour cream and powdered sugar toppings drive home its signature sweet-tart flavor. Budapest's Gettó Gulyás restaurant is known for its mean túrógombóc. Recipe.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#62 - Vargabéles: This rich dessert treat harks back to the Transylvania of the 1930s, where it was one of the signature offerings of Darvas restaurant in Cluj (Kolozsvár). The dish became so renowned that Budapest-based Gundel would order same-day deliveries by air. The creamy strudel-cake encloses fresh túró (cottage cheese) and layers of thin noodles. Restaurants usually serve a generous slice as a second course after soup. Recipe.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#63 - Yeast rolls (aranygaluska): Sweet yeast rolls are common across Central Europe; in Hungary, they usually appear as these feather-light buns coated in melted butter and ground walnuts and baked to a golden brown. Aranygaluska is impossible to stop eating, especially if you drown each piece in vanilla custard. Recipe.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#64 - Kaiserschmarrn (császármorzsa): This shredded pancake sprinkled with powdered sugar and raisins is another adored dessert across the former Austria-Hungary (the novelist F. Scott Fitzgerald called the dish "formidable"). Some say it's named after “the Kaiser,” Habsburg emperor Franz Joseph, but more likely is that it originated among Alpine herdsmen ("Kaser"). In Hungary, people make it with semolina instead of regular wheat flour and bathe the plate in runny fruit preserves. Recipe.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#65 - Plum dumplings (szilvás gombóc): When George Lang, the legendary Hungarian-American restaurateur, was asked what his last meal would be, plum dumplings was one of the dishes he picked. These light, potato-dough dumplings are beloved across the former Austria-Hungary and especially rewarding in the early fall when plums are at the height of the season. Recipe.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#66 - Jam-filled dumplings (derelye / barátfüle): A filling of plum jam (szilvalekvár) or sweet cottage cheese (túró) can really crank up these ravioli-like dessert dumplings, which are rolled in breadcrumbs and sprinkled with powdered sugar. People often make derelye with potato dough as a byproduct of the plum dumplings, above.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#67 - Poppy-seeds dumplings (mákos nudli): Yes, potato dumplings are endlessly versatile. Instead of a filling, these diamond-shaped gnocchi are coated in butter and sugared poppy seeds (or ground walnuts). As with its two sister dishes, above, people usually eat mákos nudli as a main course after a hefty soup. Recipe.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#68 - Rice pudding souffle (rizsfelfújt / rízskoch): A staple in canteens and cafeterias across Hungary, this rice pudding souffle is dotted with raisins, flavored with lemon zest, and baked to a golden brown. People usually finish it with powdered sugar and peach preserves.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#69 - Poppy seeds bread pudding (mákos guba / bobajka): It’s hard to think of a more rewarding depository for leftover, stale bread rolls than this classic bread pudding which was featured in Hungarian recipe collections as early as the 17th century. Bolstered with scalded sugary milk and finely ground poppy seeds and finished with a creamy vanilla sauce, the tired bread chunks transform into a moist, deeply satisfying dessert dish. Recipe.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#70 - Máglyarakás: As with the mákos guba, above, the máglyarakás is a wonderful transfiguration of stale bread into a rich dessert dish. Here, layers of rum-laced apples, raisins, and fruit preserves bolster the milk-soaked base, and the bonus is the soft meringue on top. The Austrian Kipferlschmarren is very similar. Recipe.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#71 - Semolina porridge (tejbegríz): For many Hungarian people, a plate of semolina cooked in sugary milk is the quintessential comfort food, evoking fond childhood memories. Growing up, I used to eat it at least once a week, sprinkled with cocoa powder, cinnamon sugar, or runny fruit preserves. I was delighted to learn that in the 16th and 17th centuries, tejbegríz was favored also by the Hungarian aristocracy, which lavishly spiked the dish with saffron for a deep-yellow color and added aroma. Can't wait to try that VIP version. Recipe.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#72 - Rice porridge (tejberízs): As elsewhere in Europe, imported rice in Hungary was regarded for a long time as a luxury ingredient and reserved for special occasions. Until the 19th century, wedding receptions often ended with a serving of rice porridge cooked in sugary milk and boosted with ginger. Today, similar to the semolina porridge, tejberízs is mainly a comfort food and especially popular among children. Recipe.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#73 - Hungarian crepes (palacsinta): No doubt, the number one dessert food in Hungary is palacsinta, wonderfully thin, unyeasted pancakes. They're usually rolled with fruit jam, sugary cottage cheese (túró), cinnamon-sugar, or sweetened lemon juice, but savory stuffings also exist as in the veal-stew filled Hortobágyi palacsinta. Palacsinta is easy to whip up so nothing should stop you from giving it a try at home. Recipe.

Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#74 - Gundel palacsinta: This gussied-up fried palacsinta bathed in chocolate cream has a filling of rum-laced ground walnuts with candied orange and raisins. There are various origin stories, but most likely it was Ilona Matzner, wife of the celebrated Hungarian novelist Sándor Márai, who introduced this pancake to Károly Gundel, who later perfected it at his renowned Budapest restaurant.


The melted-cheese topped pogácsa (sajtos) is among the most popular of its kind. Photo: Tas Tóbiás
The melted-cheese topped pogácsa (sajtos) is among the most popular of its kind. Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#75 - Pogácsa: These soft sconelike snacks are among the most traditional dating back to medieval Hungary and widespread across the country. They come in different sizes and varieties: you'll find pogácsa studded with pork cracklings (töpörtyűs), filled with cottage cheese (túrós), and topped with melted cheese (sajtos). Both bakeries and pastry shops sell pogácsa, but those often can’t hold a candle to a fresh homemade version.


Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#76 - Strudel (rétes): Strudels evolved from the baklava after Hungary's occupation by Ottoman Turkey in the 16-17th centuries. Later, strudels spread across Austria-Hungary. What makes them unique in Hungary is the sheer variety of fillings, both sweet and savory. Have you had more than enough apple strudels in Vienna? No problem, try one with cottage cheese (túró), cabbage, or poppy seeds at Strudel House or Strudel Hugó in Budapest.


The poppy-seeds and walnut-filled bejglis appear on many tables in Hungary during the Christmas season. Photo: Tas Tóbiás
The poppy-seeds and walnut-filled bejglis appear on many tables in Hungary during the Christmas season. Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#77 - Bejgli: During Christmas, most dining tables in Hungary are piled with these sweet rolls filled with finely ground poppy seeds and walnuts. People usually place them on a plate side by side because there's a folk belief that poppy seeds bring prosperity and walnuts keep trouble away. Bejgli is common across Central Europe.


Traditionally, chimney cakes (kürtőskalács) are roasted over charcoal. Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Traditionally, chimney cakes (kürtőskalács) are roasted over charcoal. Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#78 - Chimney cake (kürtőskalács): A sugar-coated dough wrapped around a baking spit and roasted over fire, the Transylvanian chimney cake flaunts a caramelized crust and a chewy, soft interior. Kürtőskalács was traditionally prepared for family celebrations, but these days Budapest vendors make all sorts of filled and ornate varieties. Feel free to just tear into them. Édes Mackó by the Budapest Zoo still makes them over charcoal.


Filled with fruit preserves, the fánk was traditionally eaten during the Carnival (farsang) season. Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Filled with fruit preserves, the fánk was traditionally eaten during the Carnival (farsang) season. Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#79 - Donut (fánk): You might know it as krapfen, Berliner, bombolone, sufganiyah, or donut – fánk is the Hungarian version of this centuries-old deep-fried pastry traditionally eaten in the days of Carnival. Besides fruit jam, a fánk might also come filled with chocolate or vanilla custard these days. Most bakeries and grocery stores in Hungary serve them year-round.


The signature feature of the Dobos torte is the shiny, brittle caramel topping. Photo: Tas Tóbiás
The signature feature of the Dobos torte is the shiny, brittle caramel topping. Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#80 - Dobos torte: It was confectioner József C. Dobos who in 1884 created this sponge cake layered with chocolate buttercream. The Dobos torte's signature feature is the shiny, brittle caramel topping. After pathetic attempts by competitors to replicate his concoction, Dobos made the recipe public and the cake has remained a staple of pastry shops in countries of the former Habsburg Monarchy. Auguszt Buda is a good place to try it. Here you can read about other classic Hungarian cakes and pastries.


Named after a prominent aristocratic family in Hungary, the Esterházy torte is popular across Central Europe. Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Named after a prominent aristocratic family in Hungary, the Esterházy torte is popular across Central Europe. Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#81 - Esterházy torte: Named after a prominent aristocratic family in Hungary, the Esterházy torte is one of the most well-known in and outside the country. It comprises alternating layers of ground walnuts (or almonds) and rum-laced buttercream with a white fondant coating. Interestingly, the cake contains no flour. At its best, the Esterházy torte is rich, but not cloying.


Hungary's custard cake, the krémes, was inspired by the Napoleon pastry. Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Hungary's custard cake, the krémes, was inspired by the Napoleon pastry. Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#82 - Krémes: Similar to a Napoleon pastry, krémes is a cherished custard slice across Central Europe with each country flaunting a slightly different version. In Hungary, apart from regular krémes – vanilla custard enclosed by puff pastry – there's also "francia krémes," which comes with an extra layer of whipped cream and a caramel glaze on top. The lines can be maddening but my favorite is probably the one at Ruszwurm in the Buda Castle.


Originally made for the Jewish holiday of Purim, the flódni has since spread into the Budapest mainstream. Photo: Tas Tóbiás
Originally made for the Jewish holiday of Purim, the flódni has since spread into the Budapest mainstream. Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#83 - Flódni: This eye-catching cake features layers of plum jam, grated apples slickened with honey, sweetened ground walnuts, and ground poppy seeds. The flódni originated among Hungary's Jewish community whose members traditionally made it for the Purim holiday, but today it's widely available across Budapest pastry shops. Recipe.


The Gerbeaud slice originates from the historic pastry shop in Budapest that first made it. Photo: Tas Tóbiás
The Gerbeaud slice originates from the historic pastry shop in Budapest that first made it. Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#84 - Gerbeaud slice: Created at the historic Café Gerbeaud, this bite-sized cake is a standard of most pastry shops in Hungary: Under a chocolate glaze lie layers of a sweet dough alternating with a filling of ground walnuts and apricot jam.


The somlói galuska is a rum-laced sponge cake layered with vanilla custard, chocolate and whipped cream, and a sprinkling of walnuts and raisins. Photo: Tas Tóbiás
The somlói galuska is a rum-laced sponge cake layered with vanilla custard, chocolate and whipped cream, and a sprinkling of walnuts and raisins. Photo: Tas Tóbiás

#85 - Somlói galuska: Despite dating back only to the 1950s, the somlói galuska has become a beloved dessert dish across Hungary. It consists of a rum-infused sponge cake soaked in vanilla custard, chocolate cream, and whipped cream, with a sprinkling of walnuts and raisins on top. Apart from pastry shops, Budapest restaurants also serve it.

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